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Discussion Starter #1
where I bought my bike I asked there top mechanic if this was your bike how would you beak it in.
told me just ride it don't baby it but stay away from the red line.
change the oil to yamaha full synthetic after 500 miles and always use Yamaha filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
about with my mechanic told me but this guy saying to change your oil sooner with standard oil not synthetic.
 

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Yeah, I have always heard to use the OG dino juice for the first change. The synthetic is essentially too good and is not good for the new motor. After about 500 miles it is safe to make the switch in most cases. But again, this is the internet and there will be many folks that say that I am full of it. ;)
 

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I did the Motoman break in on my 1000RR when it was new and I also did the Motoman on my FZ09.....no issues with either bike. The 1000RR was sold several years ago with 24,xxx miles on it and didn't burn any oil and ran very well, even compared to other 1000RR's of the same model year. The FZ09 only has around 3K miles on it, but it runs very well and doesn't burn oil. When my wife Peggy gets her new FZ07, I will be doing the Motoman break in on it too, which reminds me.......is there any chance that the FZ09 and the FZ07 oil filters are the same? Anyone know?

Nevermind......I found a parts fiche that has the new FZ07 listed and the filters for the FZ09 and the FZ07 are the same filters. Good news.....I've got like 4 or 5 of them out in the garage already.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
fz-07 oil filter model is 5gh-13440-50 not sure what the 09 uses.
 

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This is anecdotal, but I picked up my 07 a week ago and now have 400 miles on it. It did not run so well the first couple of days. It would die at long traffic lights when the engine was hot and it would stumble and hesitate at higher speeds such as rolling onto the interstate. It was also hard to re-start with a hot engine when I stopped for the first re-fuel. I then wrote a letter to Yamaha complaining. So then I decided to do a hard break-in since I had babied the bike to that point. Got it nice and hot riding around 20 min. and took it up to redline in 2nd, and immediately let off the throttle to create back pressure. Did this a bunch of times...maybe 10. Rode around a little more wringing out the bike a bit going up and down the gears. Changed the oil and filter at 104 miles and went to Rotella T6. Now the bike runs perfectly. I think it just needed a good break-in. Maybe it didn't need a hard break-in, but dying in traffic was not something I was happy with. The oil was very dark and dirty so it did need changing at the 104-mile mark too I think. The bike has not died or stumbled since. It re-starts quicker when hot now than when cold, so that problem has gone away too. When I picked up the bike, the chain was too loose, not quite straight, and the dealer had put too much oil in the crankcase, but that's another story. Everything is good now and the bike runs like a well-oiled machine. Well, I guess that's what it is after all. Ha.
 

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fz-07 oil filter model is 5gh-13440-50 not sure what the 09 uses.
Yes, that oil filter is one of the most common on the market. The Ninja 300, Ninja 650r, Triumph Street Triple r, among many others use the same size filter as the FZ-07. Specs could be a little different between different filters for bypass valve pressure and filter material, but if I had a Ninja 300 filter, I would use it. You could also buy a cheap Fram filter from Walmart (about $6). The no. there is PH6017A. The FZ-09 uses the same filter.
 

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Yeah, I have always heard to use the OG dino juice for the first change. The synthetic is essentially too good and is not good for the new motor. After about 500 miles it is safe to make the switch in most cases. But again, this is the internet and there will be many folks that say that I am full of it. ;)
More and more motorcycles and cars come with full synthetic. Vespa, Tuono, RSV4, Triumph Street Triple r, Prius, Civic, plus many more. Those engines must get broken in. I'm not sure the rationale for waiting to go to synthetic is valid or or if it ever was, but then I can't say synthetic is better either. I have also read and often heard not to go to full synthetic until 1000-1500 miles, but I go to full synthetic the first oil change which I do early after a hard break-in because I live in Texas where it is hot and sunny, so engines get hot waiting in traffic and synthetic is supposed to be more resistant to breakdown from heat. Finally, Rotella T6 is cheaper than a lot of dino oil at $22 a gallon at Walmart, or less when on sale. Your bike would get properly broken-in even if you started with full synthetic, I think. I doubt it makes any difference in normal riding conditions or in any conditions for that matter which you use cause you wouldn't expect an engine to fail, a clutch to slip, or the piston rings to not seal or the engine to smoke or use oil, or be slower than normal no matter what oil you use provided it meets the specs. Bottom line: I doubt it matters which oil you use and when you change to synthetic or even if you stay with dino oil. I ride hard so I change more than recommended but I can't say that is even necessary. But hey, oil and filters are cheap and easy to change and I feel it makes my motorcycle happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im ready to fill up what octane should I be using 91 ?
 

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86 octane or higher according to the manual. Regular unleaded is 87 octane where I live, so I use that. No advantage to using a higher octane than called for, but opinions differ on that.
 

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Opinions may differ, but it's a scientific fact that higher than required octane gasoline will cause an internal combustion engine to run worse rather than better. Higher octane fuel requires a higher compression and many times, changes in ignition timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so stick with 87 octane, thanks guys
 

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Who's all done this motoman break in? Who thinks the traditional break in is better?
I've done it on my last 10 or so bikes, ever since reading motoman's page about 15 years ago, and reading my cbr600 manual instructions which said 'do not use full thottle or maximum rpm for the first 300miles.'

No problems, and my new FZ07 got the first taste of it today. Not really like motoman's break in, but I pay no attention to rpms other than keep them widely varied, lots of big throttle openings and engine braking, and an early oil change (around 100-200 miles for me, then again at 600).

It's worth noting that nothing in yamaha's break in instructions is incompatible with motoman, so it's not really a case of either or. :)
 

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Kawasaki EN 500 Ltd, Ninja 250r, 3 Ninja 300s, Triumph Street Triple r, Ninja 650, GSX-r1000, Grom, now the FZ-07 are my last 10 motorcycles and all got the hard break-in as described with an early oil and filter change. I went right to Rotella T6 at the first oil changes 50-100 miles.The Grom was the most noticeable of the group. Small engine I suppose, but it was slow the first day or so. After the hard break-in and oil change (there is no filter), the bike ran 8 mph faster, and smoother. I only ever had one problem with a motorcycle breaking-in and that was a Suzuki 2009 GZ250. I rode it home from the dealer and near my home, it started making a tinny and knocking sound. I don't recall now if I stopped or slowed down, but the noise went away after a while and no warning lights came on, but that was not a good sign. Never an issue with the bike after that, but I traded it away a little earlier than usual out of concerns. That was a traditional break-in and the last traditional break-in I believe.
 

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I've done it on my last 10 or so bikes, ever since reading motoman's page about 15 years ago, and reading my cbr600 manual instructions which said 'do not use full thottle or maximum rpm for the first 300miles.'

No problems, and my new FZ07 got the first taste of it today. Not really like motoman's break in, but I pay no attention to rpms other than keep them widely varied, lots of big throttle openings and engine braking, and an early oil change (around 100-200 miles for me, then again at 600).

It's worth noting that nothing in yamaha's break in instructions is incompatible with motoman, so it's not really a case of either or. :)
When you say engine braking are you just letting off the throttle or down shifting?
 

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^^^^ you can do both....let the engine braking slow you down until you need to down-shift....say around 4K RPM's and then down-shirt to the next lowest gear...then back on the throttle hard. Keep in mind, you probably want to do this in an area that is away from most of the traffic and trying to somewhat stay within the legal speed limits.....which simply isn't hardly possible sometimes.
 
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I did my hard break-in mostly in 2nd gear to avoid speeding. You could do it in 1st gear too, but it might be jerky as you let off the throttle. 6th gear wouldn't work cause what is redline there...about 125 mph or so? It also wouldn't do to run up to redline, then downshift for obvious reasons...your rpms would surge way over redline and your rear wheel would lock up and kick out to the right but slowing down first then going to another gear as was just mentioned would work fine. Your piston rings don't care what gear you are in...only the rpms and compression. Make sure the bike is thoroughly warmed up before doing this, twist the throttle gradually, not like in a drag race, then when you get to redline or just below, quickly release the throttle and let the bike slow down on its own. Don't brake. Some people go over redline a bit, probably a lot more don't get to redline for fear of hurting something. I go right up to redline. How many times? I can't say. I do it a dozen times maybe and combine this with some more breaking in going through the gears up and down. Then change the oil and filter. The bike should have 50-100 miles on it (some say a few more...but not 600 mi. with this break-in method) Then change the oil and filter. The bike will now run smoother and faster and although you still don't want to drone on for miles at 70 mph on the intestate, the vast majority of the break-in is complete and you can ride the bike as you intend to ride it. The 2nd oil change should be at 600 miles or so.
 
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